hey — Dublin was the first stop on our European vacation this summer, which was prompted by our college football team (randomly) playing their first game here (Go Noles!), followed by Spanish adventures in Barcelona + Mallorca. while we used Dublin more as a jumping off point and didn’t spend a lot of time here, we were able to see a lot of the city in a short amount of time by walking through some of the main neighborhoods and breaking up meals in order to eat all the fish+chips/seafood + drink at all the natty wine bars/pubs (so many options to choose from for both!). below are the highlights of our trip focusing on these areas — and as always, check out my IG stories for more + here’s a link to my Google Maps with these options + more.
DUBLIN
TIPS
Expect to walk around a lot, from Stoneybatter/Smithfield, which feels like Greenpoint/Brooklyn, to the City Center—a collection of Georgian terraces, open green spaces and historic sites—and bar-hopping through Temple Bar + the Creative Quarter
Expect menus full of comfort food anchored in seasonal + local Irish produce; while Dublin is a global city, there’s been more attention brought to Irish cuisine lately, with chefs dedicated to showcasing the country’s bounty from field, farm + ocean
Expect a lot of promotion for recycling + sustainability, which reflects Dublin’s political nature + the left-leaning youths progressive policies focused on social justice, environmental protection, and inclusivity, reflected in its active promotion of green energy + sustainable urban planning — the US could learn a thing or two!
Most importantly expect to have a lot of craic (a good time)
EAT/DRINK
Joli (Stoneybatter) coffee/cafe: coffee/toasties (essentially a grilled cheese with meat/other filling) by day + Mexican fare/wine by night in a cozy cafe setting
Slice (Stoneybatter) breakfast: go-to brunch spot serving quality + inventive dishes, coffee/old world wines + cake
A Fianco (Stoneybatter) Italian wine bar: perfect Italian sourced, low intervention wines + seasonal food made with local ingredients in a Brooklyn-esq space with seating at the counter, window or patio // def recommend a resy if coming at a busier time as slightly smaller + v popular
Grano (Stoneybatter) Italian: Michelin-starred restaurant run by a Calabrian for contemporary yet unfussy authentic Italian with fresh organic ingredients in a Thumbelina-sized dining room (aka hard to find resys)
L Mulligan Grocer (Stoneybatter) gastro pub: modern, slightly upscale take on a classic Irish pub with seasonal, hearty Irish dishes using local ingredients + craft beers/local distilleries
Fish Shop (Smithfield) seafood: on all the lists + well worth it for an elevated fish + chip experience in a compact space with low intervention wines on offer; best fried fish of my life! // resy’s are a must. get the Hake catch of the day, a meaty yet flaky white fish that melts in the mouth, plus the smoked salmon on toast - best cured fish i’ve ever had (yes, beating NYC)
Fidelity Bar (Smithfield) bar: high design bar for craft beer + cocktails plus state of the art sound system…feels like you’re back in Brooklyn or LA’s east side
Fidelity Studio Bar/Restaurant (Smithfield) listening bar/Chinese: impeccable design, Chinese fusion bites, craft cocktails/beers, Old World wines, and an impressive sound system for a quality listening bar experience from the Fidelity Bar team around the corner…again, v hip vibes
Mi Casa (Smithfield): Mediterranean seafood tapas with local ingredients in a cute industrial space
Piglet Wine Bar (Temple Bar west) wine bar: cozy yet atmospheric wine bar in the quieter area of TB focusing on low intervention European wines with a tight menu of revolving small dishes // set menu for lunch is the move before it gets slammed
The Seafood Cafe (Temple Bar) seafood: award-winning “fish-to-fork” seafood spot with an ever-evolving selection of sustainable options in an upscale space // follow it up with a glass of natty wine at Piglet Wine Bar nearby
PI George’s Street Pizza (Temple Bar - George’s St + Essex St) pizza: obsessively made wood-fired Neapolitan pies inspired by Roberta’s in Brooklyn, but using fresh Irish ingredients // no resy’s for less than 5 people, but there’s a queuing app so you don’t have to wait around - we took it to a nearby pub + ate outside
Asian options for when you’re sick of pub food: Achara (newer, regional Thai cooked over charcoal grill); Lotus Eaters (higher end Thai) + Floritz (global Asian fusion) + Banyi (Japanese/sushi)
Bambino (South of Temple Bar) pizza: New York-style slice shop boasting 48 hour fermented dough // get the Sicilian-style burrata square slice
Row (South of Temple Bar) wine bar: located on a narrow alley off a buzzy street, this high energy wine bar is inspired by Tokyo’s listening bars offering low intervention wines, small plates, and an extensive vinyl collection with plentiful seating options including an outdoor terrace // issa vibe - perfect for a bite/drink before a night out
Bar Pez (Portobello) seafood/wine bar: Spanish/Mediterranean-forward menu focusing on seafood dishes + low intervention wines from the Fish Shop team (so you know it’s good)
Frank’s (Portobello) wine bar: located inside a former butcher shop, a cave à manger-style wine bar for a vast array of low intervention wines + a concise menu of French-tinged small plates with a communal high table + counter seats
The Fumbally (Portobello) bakery/cafe: community-focused neighborhood cafe/bakery/shop/event space for health-conscious, delicious food // skews young, creative, literary + cool; fun fact: they run a “circular kitchen” where there’s no head chef- they shift positions for a more collaborative/healthy environ
Bread 41 (City Quay) bakery: destination bakery tucked under a bridge specializing in sourdough breads, along with inventive pastries + lunch // expect a line + heads up on their to-go coffee policy: you can either bring your own cup, or use one of theirs that you must bring back (or pay a fee)
As One (City Quay) healthy cafe: quality neighborhood shop + eatery focusing on organic/seasonal dishes in an industrial, bright + airy space; great brunch as well
Note (South of City Quay) bistro/natty wine bar: Michelin-starred natty wine bar turned bistro for modern yet unfussy cuisine
Daddy’s Cafe (Rialto) brunch/lunch: chic, walk-in only neighborhood café serving Irish comfort food using seasonal and local produce - far west of city center
King Sitric Seafood Bar (Howth) seafood: a Bourdain-approved stalwart known for freshly-caught seafood with a large outside terrace overlooking the scenic harbor - north of city center // i didnt make it here, but my friends (also with impeccable taste) said this is the spot to turn non-clam chowder people into believers; the king crab claws + lobster also looked insane
DRINK
Brazen Head (The Liberties) pub: “officially Ireland's Oldest Pub dating back to 1198” aka expect this to be touristy, but soak up the history with a pint (or two) and it won’t matter much
The Workman’s Club (Temple Bar) live music: venue for live music with a younger, more local crowd
The Temple Bar Pub (Temple Bar) pub: the quintessential pub since 1840 – known for its live traditional Irish music, Ireland’s largest whiskey collection + the craic // even though this corner bar is quite touristy, i recommend just grabbing a quick drink or walking through the interiors to catch the vibe
The Old Storehouse Bar and Restaurant (Temple Bar) pub: classic Irish bar with cozy dark Victorian interiors and live music for a lively atmosphere; good bar food as well to soak up all the Guinness
The Palace Bar (Temple Bar) pub: multi-level Victorian bar famous for its beautiful interiors, including a stained glass skylight + comfortable seating options, timeless ambiance + low playing Irish music so you can actually chat
Loose Cannon Cheese & Wine Bar (South of Temple Bar) wine bar: Dublin’s original natty wine “bar” serving iconic varietals by the glass + bottle; best part is you can enjoy in the tiny, all-white space or take it to go and hang on the buzzy Drury Street w/ the best of em // walkins only; get the cheese toastie before 5:30!
Amy Austin (South of Temple Bar) wine bar: an intimate spot with a New York-feel and a huge selection of wines on tap plus an array of elevated small plates
All Good Wine Bar (North Portobello) wine bar: cafe by day, vibey natty wine bar by night with rotating DJs, neon lights + disco balls for a good time
DO
Since Dublin is such an easy, walkable city, instead of focusing on specific places to see, I focused more on walkable neighborhoods that will give you optimal cultural moments + a good variety of spots that should appeal to you based on the amount of time you’re there.
Smithfield + Stoneybatter neighborhoods: aka the Brooklyn of Dublin. These are the trendy, up-and-coming areas known for their creative vibe, street art + local charm with a mix of must-visit cafes/pubs, artisan shops, and cultural spots, like the Jameson Distillery. Every spot felt v ~aesthetic~ and design-forward, from the wine bars with some of the best food in the city (Fish Shop + A Fianco/Grano), listening bars + amazing brunch spots (from Joli to Slice). The buildings are a mix of red-brick Victorian houses with tiny communal gardens, converted industrial spaces, and newer developments, giving the neighborhoods an eclectic + evolving feel.
Temple Bar: walk through (aka bar hop around) this lively area full of cobblestone streets, traditional pubs like The Temple Bar Pub, live music venues, and cultural spots/shops (like the bookstore Library Project). While it felt like a tamed down Bourbon Street, we were also there for a college football game, so I assume it’s not as rowdy normally (but still def a touristy area). The buildings are a mix of restored medieval structures and colorful facades, giving the area a quirky yet historical feel.
City Centre: the bustling heart of Dublin where you’ll find the majority of tourists as there are a variety of things to do, from visiting historical landmarks like Dublin Castle (dating from 1204) and Trinity College (home to the Book of Kells at the Old Library), to shopping independent stores along Grafton Street + Drury Street and exploring cultural hubs like the National Gallery (home to Irish/European art). The neighborhood features a blend of architectural styles, from Georgian-era buildings to modern structures, and a lot of green space to chill (Dubh Linn Garden + St Stephens Green).
Creative Quarter: a vibrant hub spanning from South William Street to George’s Street that attracts the “creative types” who enjoy independent/vintage boutiques, art galleries, and trendy dining + drinking, including wine bars Loose Cannon + Row Wines. The architecture features a mix of Georgian and Victorian buildings, including George’s Street Arcade (an ornate 1881 shopping plaza), and narrow alleys with a buzzy energy where people are drinking + hanging out on the street.
Guinness Storehouse: if Guinness is your thing, tour the iconic seven floor brewery or stop by an entire floor of restaurants + the top floor Gravity Bar which has panoramic views of Dublin
LINKS
GUIDE/DO // Visit Dublin for an overall great resource + CNT UK for things to do
EAT/DRINK // Eater for the best restaurants + Conde Nast Traveler for worthy pubs
coming up next: my guides to Barcelona, including a day trip to Figueres/Girona, and multiple lists to Mallorca, where we spent the bulk of our time. vale!
shoutout to Slice!!!
Wish I had this informative read and recs before I visited Dublin. Great information for a Beautiful City. Makes me want to go back!!!