JOSHUA TREE, CALI | DEEP DIVE
come for the trees, stay for the rocks
hey — growing up in Miami + spending my 20s in New York City, i had always found comfort in the warm salt spray from the Atlantic ocean + humid city nights buzzing with endless energy, but in the back of my mind there was a constant + unexpected pull to the stillness of the desert that i just couldn’t shake. it only took one trip to Joshua Tree a couple months after moving out west to completely fall in love with everything i thought the desert would be, and more. the expansive, vast landscape with an endless sky; the sun-dappled backdrop of sandy beige, terra-cotta, golden brown, and brilliant blue—colors that seem to swallow you whole; the silence (the silence!); it truly is a place where you can lose yourself, until you’ve found yourself. we now make it a point to visit at least once a year, and have made the trek nine times (in 6.5 years), so feel like this list has been a long time coming! below are my highlights for what to do in the NP, where to eat+drink+stay+do outside of the park, and a surprising amount of shopping options. as always, check out my IG stories (+ follow me @bwex) for some more visuals + here’s a link to my Google Maps with these/additional suggestions for easy access.
JOSHUA TREE, CALIFORNIA
where the Colorado and Mojave Deserts collide just 130 miles from Los Angeles, Joshua Tree emerges as a mesmerizing high desert landscape, with a “choose your own adventure” vibe — you could spend your days checking out the vast national park’s iconic trails, or you could amble about a string of quirky, sun-soaked towns (Yucca Valley, Twentynine Palms, and the town of Joshua Tree itself) checking out saloons slinging cocktails + barbecue, endless shopping for vintage clothes + quirky items, and experiencing transportive art. either way, expect to see the town’s namesake trees everywhere you turn + lots of options for fun or rest + relaxation.
PRE-JTREE
assuming you’re driving from LA on the i-10, there are a couple fun stops to break up the trip
Hadley Fruit Orchards: about 90% of dates grown in the US come from the Coachella Valley (?!!), so snag a date shake + snacks here for rest of the drive
Cabazon Dinosaurs: take pics in front of the “worlds largest dinosaurs”; Pee Wee Herman’s Big Adventure filmed here
Cactus Mart (Morongo Valley): amazing cacti, succulent + desert decor options
Black Luck Vintage (Morongo Valley): hand picked vintage, vinyl, clothing + art from mid century to the 80s in the high desert
YUCCA VALLEY / PIONEERTOWN / JOSHUA TREE / TWENTYNINE PALMS
EAT / DRINK
Luna Bakery (Yucca Valley) bakery: incredible sourdough pastries + breads alongside sandwiches, flatbreads + salads; make sure to snag the cheese + chive scones! // open 8am-2pm (sandwiches/etc after 9am)
Frontier Cafe (Yucca Valley) cafe: great option for healthy-ish breakfast + lunch items with an array of indoor seating/patio area in eclectic digs with local art for sale
Kasa Carniceria y Taqueria (Yucca Valley) tacos/market: a Mexican market with a hidden taco shop in the back. perfect stop for lunch or picking up ingredients to make homemade salsa
Pappy & Harriet’s (Pioneertown) restaurant/saloon/music venue: iconic music venue + BBQ restaurant with history dating back to the 1940s. always packed + energized - the place to see + be seen. the cheese fries are everything, as are the ribs/bbq. expect a wait unless you get there right when it opens
Red Dog Saloon (Pioneertown) saloon: an Old West-style saloon built in 1940s (+ former Hell’s Angels biker bar) turned hipster x cowboy staple for craft beer, live music, and Tex-Mex; easy 5 min walk from Pappy’s for a drink while you wait
The Tiny Pony Tavern (Yucca Valley) tavern: low-key strip mall tavern for elevated bar food (duck confit nachos + smashburgers), cocktails/natty wine + billiards/karaoke/events at a queer/trans-friendly space // M-F 11am-1am; S+S 9am-1am; S+S brunch 9am-3pm
The Copper Room (Yucca Valley) drink: historic restaurant at the Yucca Valley Airport open since the 1950s (frequented by Frank Sinatra) that’s recently been restored with a distinct 70s living room vibe with a wrap-around bar perfect for lounging with a martini + snack or full meal // open 4-10pm + HH 4-6pm
La Copine (Flamingo Heights) New American: female owned + operated upscale daytime cafe serving a rotating menu of French x Cali inspired cuisine – definitely the best restaurant in the area with a bad ass staff. be sure to check out the shop in the back, Teocali, for amazing traditional handmade Mexican goods // text for reservations (760.289.8537) but there is an on-site waitlist too // 11am-4pm
Giant Rock Meeting Room (Flamingo Heights) pizza/bar: local watering hole + pizza shop for live music, cocktails, beer + pop up events with a nice outdoor patio
The Big Dez (Joshua Tree) cafe: all-day spot for breakfast, sandwiches, salads + Aussie pastries with patio dining + cozy indoor banquettes, plus high end grocery store items, including wine + beer // 8am-3pm
The Dez (Joshua Tree) cafe: tiny, all-day eatery that’s perfect for a post-hike refuel. small counter-service space has a large daily-changing menu of sandwiches, breakfast sandwiches and salads; this is where you pick up items to-go as well // 6:30am-4pm
Crossroads Cafe (Joshua Tree) diner: all-day diner for solid food any time of the day, but best for breakfast
Joshua Tree Coffee Company (Joshua Tree) coffee: amazing locally roasted coffee (get the nitro!) + pastries; expect a line since only decent coffee in town
Sky High Pizza (Joshua Tree) pizza: solid sourdough pizza located on the main strip right outside the park's main entrance with something for everyone, from classic to more fun options + vegan/gluten-free
Joshua Tree Saloon (Joshua Tree) restaurant/saloon: similar to Pappy’s–western restaurant bar–in a more convenient location. the outdoor space (simply called “the yard”) is basically the town’s living room, with live music + outdoor bbq on the weekends // Sun-Thurs 11-11PM; F+S 11-12 AM
Más o Menos (Joshua Tree) coffee/drinks: might think you’re back in LA with this chic coffee spot by day cocktail/wine bar by night set in a 1952 Spanish-style renovated casita with community programming, pop-ups + rotating food trucks; cute merch moment!
Grnd Sqrl (Twentynine Palms) burger/beer: chill gastropub for scratch-made food centering around maybe my favorite burgie EVER + amazing selection of craft beer; 29 Palms Beer Company down the street is another nice option
Kitchen In The Desert (Twentynine Palms) outdoor cocktail spot: perfect spot for a pre-dinner drink on a cactus-studded outdoor patio with lots of spaces to lounge interspersed with historic mining equipment + surrounded by small artsy shops; the restaurant didn’t do it for us though (serves Trinidadian-influenced American brunch + dinner)
Out There Bar (Twentynine Palms) drink: a true dive bar…v out there. think windowless, 70s-vibe, Bud on draft, pool tables with bearded locals hanging out, but also Neapolitan pizza pop-ups, LA indie band sets, bingo nights, etc
JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
Joshua Tree National Park: the park is a massive desert–actually two deserts: the Mojave + the Colorado–filled with incredible geological rock formations, it’s namesake spindly trees + a surprising amount of wildlife. just driving around is an adventure on its own, as is stopping off for quick to moderate hikes (or bouldering! you do you!). my fav time to go is around sunset to see the changing of colors on the rocks (and it’s not as hot)
some things of note:
there are 3 entrances: West at Joshua Tree Village (standard); North at Twentynine Palms (best if it’s busy); South at Indio (if you’re daytripping from Palm Springs)
entrance fee is $30 for 7 days; annual national park pass is $80/year
busy season is Oct-May; expect a line into the entrance during peak times
bring more water than you think you need + snacks are recommended!
most of the popular park trailheads are 30ish minutes *into the park* so plan accordingly
download the map of Joshua Tree area to use offline as there’s basically no cell service
good to know: http://joshuatree.guide/joshua-tree-national-park
my favorite/go-to hikes, but here’s a guide to some more:
Hidden Valley (1 mile loop/beginner): closest to the entrance, this is a repeat offender + great introduction to the unique + iconic ecosystem of the Mojave Desert. after passing through a gap in some large boulders, the trail opens up to a small valley with breathtaking views, then loops around the valley. along the way there is signage to learn about desert plants + wildlife (the only trail i’ve come across that has this feature)
Keys View (.2 mile loop; beginner): great for views across the Coachella Valley and as far as the Salton Sea and Palm Springs on clear days. even better at sunset/twilight for the sparkle of all the lights in the valley
BDAY SUNSET HIKE Ryan Mountain (3 mile out-and-back/intermediate-challenging): the highest point in the park, with a steep upwards climb basically the entire time to get there — but the views are worth it, especially at sunset (bring a flashlight). takes about 1.5-2 hours, so bring extra water — and it can be quite windy since it’s a higher elevation (5,457 feet at the top)
ARCH ROCK // JUMBO ROCKS Jumbo Rocks: you can camp here (reservations required), or check out one of the most popular hikes in the park - Skull Rock Trail (1.7 miles/beginner): walk through a winding trail to an enormous boulder with two eye sockets carved into it by years of water erosion
Arch Rock: meander through giant rock formations to a 30-foot tall formation that’s also great when there’s a new moon for views of the Milky Way; get as adventurous as you want on your way (getting up to the arch requires a little bit of scrambling, but it's fine! you’ll be fine!)
JUST A CHONGA AMONGST CHOLLAS
Cholla Garden (.25 mile nature walk/beginner): not necessarily a hike, but definitely a MUST - especially at sunrise or sunset when the “teddy-bear” cholla (choy-ya) glow. either way keep a safe distance - these cacti are spiky, and check your shoes bc one always tries to come home with you!
DO
Pioneertown (google maps): originally built in 1946 by Hollywood to film western movies set in the 1800s. now a great place to visit for great western-themed restaurants/bars, cute shops, or even bowl in a newly restored mid-century modern bowling alley, Pioneer Bowl
Integratron (Landers): the most Cali thing you could do — a sound bath in this iconic, domed structure. tickets sell out waaaay in advance and are around $60
Noah Purifoy Outdoor Museum (Joshua Tree): named after the artist who created the more than 100 sculptures scattered on 10 acres of land, made from repurposed materials (aka “junk” to others)
‘Transmission’ Sculpture (Joshua Tree): large installation symbolizing the connection between earth + sky with fractal glass mosaics that reflect the sky in multicoloured rays. Cute photo moment but don’t go out of your way for it
daytrip to Palm Springs! only about 50 minutes — guide coming soon :)
DO - SHOP
Mojave Flea Trading Post (Yucca Valley): marketplace of stalls for unique handmade goods, vintage finds, and local art, most of which are crafted by vendors from the high desert community
The Dusty Blue (Yucca Valley): great selection of quality vintage fashion + military goods plus hand-dyed indigo wares
Pioneer Crossing Antiques (Yucca Valley): antique shop full of quirky + odd treasures
acme62 (Yucca Valley): beautifully curated locally + globally made artisanal goods perfect for desert living from home decor, accent furniture, pots/plants, apparel + accessories
The End (Yucca Valley): colorful shop with exterior murals offering funky vintage clothing + goods; follow the graphic snake around the corner for The Rear End, a chill shop for all things gentleman-related from the rugged to the regal
All Roads Desert Market (Yucca Valley): well curated selection of handcrafted textiles, homewares, snacks, and even hardware – anything you need for the high desert life; cute original merch
Desert Curios (Yucca Valley): quirky antique + vintage shop for art, furniture, books + curios
Desierto Alto (Yucca Valley): wine + spirits shop with the largest selection of natural wine (great prices!) around, plus tons of specialty cheeses + charcuterie + all the extras you might need
Pioneertown: XēBA BOTáNICA - hand crafted apothecary items; Pioneertown General Store - vintage items + western leaning goods; and Soukie Modern Outpost - vibrant Moroccan rugs
Teocali (Flamingo Heights): amazing little female-owned shop behind La Copine offering an array of traditional handmade Mexican goods at great prices, from candles and ceramics to vintage and modern silver jewelry + leather goods
Hey There Projects (Joshua Tree): large range of local art pieces for sale for every budget, along with smaller items from gifts to cards
Joshua Tree Bottle Shop (Joshua Tree): nice range of small-production wine under $25 (with great informative tags!), a stocked beer fridge and small selection of craft mezcal/other spirits
SUN OF THE DESERT (Joshua Tree): meticulously curated general store for top notch merch + all you need for the desert life and a great outdoor patio in the back to hand; shares a space Jen’s Pirate Booty for chic fits
The Station (Joshua Tree): a restored 1949 gas station converted into a store for vintage souvenirs, exclusive merch, other nostalgia, and BIG JOSH
Hi-Desert Daydream (Twentynine Palms): boutique for clothes, artwork, home decor + drought tolerant plants with a high-desert vibe
HABITAT (Twentynine Palms): desert-inspired home decor items
Corner 62 (Twentynine Palms): home to a variety of cute local shops, Hi Desert Times (magazines, books, snacks); Scorpion Lollipop (good wine/beverages + shoppy shop items); White Label Vinyl (records + vintage clothes); and Very Very (eclectic collection of art, clothing, home decor + collective events/popups)
SUN OF THE DESERT (Twentynine Palms): original (+ larger) outpost of J Tree location for merch + desert life goods, plus community events
Mojave Moon Apothecary (Twentynine Palms): for crystals, apothecary items + home decor goods
STAY
traditional hotels are limited in the area, so Airbnb-style accommodations (or camping) is your best bet. plan as far out in advance as you can, as there are some really incredibly designed spots that book up quick.
Know Where Ranch (Pioneertown): high-design rustic ranch retreat set on 2.5 acres in the heart of Pioneertown for up to 8 guests
Terracasa (Yucca Valley): bright, airy 2 bedroom, 2 bath house recently remodeled + decorated with a curated collection of unique + vintage one-of-a-kind pieces that blend into the desert palette. from the owner of Prism boutique in Long Beach
Field Station (Yucca Valley): a recently renovated modern lodge for a no frills stay plus a pool, hot tub + outdoor sitting areas with games
The Bungalows by Homestead Modern (Joshua Tree): an architectural gem in the middle of the desert: 14 recently renovated mid-century post-and-beam-style suites, all which are listed in the National Register of Historic Places (and the largest collection of Lloyd Wright buildings), along with a fire-pit, pool, hot tub and wellness activities
Hicksville Trailer Palace (Joshua Tree): stay in one of the 11 eclectic trailers for a low key glamping experience — could be fun to book it up with a big group, but def value option; The Castle House Estate is another collection of more elevated glamping accommodations, from yurts and tents to shipping containers, set on 12 acres surrounded by undeveloped land for a more tranquil experience
The Joshua Tree House (Joshua Tree): IG-famous design-forward bungalow renovated by Sara + Rich Combs that i’m pretty sure started the modern x desert design craze from the mid/late 2010s. so many amazing thoughtful touches that make it the perfect homebase – two beds, two baths with a jacuzzi and less than 5 minute drive to downtown (only downside is you can hear the highway)
JOSHUA TREE CABIN If you're looking for a completely silent + remote desert experience, they have other properties: The Joshua Tree Hacienda ( two bed, one bath home with a heated pool); The Joshua Tree Casita (two bed, one bath home with a jacuzzi); or The Joshua Tree Cabin (remote tiny home perfect for a couple with a heated cowboy pool and open space – we loved it!)
AutoCamp Joshua Tree (Joshua Tree): elevated, minimalist Airstream trailers + standalone cabins with the amenities of a boutique hotel, such as a pool, lounge area, restaurant, and a great “camp” store
Hotel Wren (Twentynine Palms): newly opened 12 room boutique desert retreat converted from a 1940s roadside motel by an LA-based design studio (Manola Studio) just 10 min from the north entrance of JTNP with a chic pool; haven’t stayed here yet, but seems like this is the best design-forward hotel option around
Ramsey 29 Motel (Twentynine Palms): a recently renovated 1940s motor court in the center of town. another cute hotel option
29 Palms Inn (Twentynine Palms): a fifth generation historic inn with lush landscaping featuring an oasis-like garden and pond along with a range of bungalows, cabins and guesthouses. a bit more rustic than modern
camping options: Hidden Valley Campground (Joshua Tree National Park) for first-come, first-serve camping in the park - $25 per site. if it’s full, there are Bureau of Land Management-run areas outside the park or Hipcamp for private campgrounds
